A Wintery Week in Corfu
Corfu, the emerald jewel of the Ionian islands, has a history of inspiring writers to find their voice and to make it their home. Here are some suggestions to strike the perfect balance between peace and inspiration.
Corfu is without a doubt one of the most beautiful of the Greek islands, as waves of more or less hostile visitors over the years will attest. For someone more familiar with the earthy browns and low foliage of the Cyclades, the riotous green is positively tropical and almost obscene. Where did all that precious water come from? Well, that fecundity has to come from somewhere and the winter months in Corfu can be pretty wet. Maybe that’s why so many Brits felt comfortable there.
Corfu has inspired the likes of Edward Lear, Henry Miller and both Durrells, Gerald and Lawrence. It’s even been theorised that Corfu was the island that Shakespeare had in mind when writing The Tempest although don’t take that the mean that he would have been lounging on the beach in his pleated swimming shorts. The beautiful scenery, relative quiet and all year round eating make Corfu the perfect place for a writer to find the balance to get pen to paper. We asked Nick Cookson, dashing Founder of The Villa Collective and long term Corfu expert, for some winter tips to get the ink flowing.
Where to Stay
Obviously we would suggest one of Nick’s stunning villas, for instance the breathtaking Villa Posillipo which stood in as the Durrell’s house in the TV series but if you’re looking for something a little more compact and bijoux try Locantiera or Siora Vittoria, both are beautiful and well run boutique hotels in Corfu town. You’ll have enough quiet to write but also will be close enough to the hubbub for those all important interactions with other humans when you forget what real dialogue sounds like.
Where to Eat and Drink
Unlike some of the islands that go into full hibernation in the winter months, there’s plenty to eat and drink on the island all year round. Oasis in Strinilas, a traditional taverna in a sleepy mountain village set under a 250 year old elm tree. It’s famous for its pies but all of the old classics are there and well made. Try the rabbit stifado while you work on your scansion. Salto in Corfu Town is packed in the summer and cosy and welcoming in the winter, this wine bar and restaurant has excellent seasonal specials, wine pairing and a good atmosphere to practise your Hemingway snarl. The saffron “Kritharoto” is a speciality and particularly good.
A Mind Clearing Swim
When you need to get the limbs moving and the endorphins flowing a winter swim at Falaraki Beach, below the fortress in Corfu town, is a regular for year round town dwellers. There are few better views while bobbing around and nodding at locals. Expect invigorating temperatures of 16 degrees in the winter.
An Inspirational Walk
As historian G.M. Trevelyan wisely opined, “After a day’s walk everything has twice its usual value.” and Corfu provides ample opportunity for doubling your inspiration as you walk some, or all, of the 180 km Corfu Trail. Devised by walking guru, author and Corfu resident, Hilary Whitton Paipeti, the trial takes you through the ever changing Corfu coast and hinterland. An app or pdf guide is available to steer you on your journey through swathes of stunning Corfu scenery that is rarely seen by visitors. A real treat for walkers and lovers of nature.
