In the Spirit of a Winemaker: Q & A with Angeliki Grazia
Angeliki Grazia is on a quest. What started as a heritage project to revive oft-forgotten varieties of Naxos’ winemaking culture, ended up with Grazia as a firm advocate of not only preserving these ancient varieties, but also of highlighting their role in the future of Greek wine-making. At the picturesque Terra Grazia winery in Kato Sangri, which includes a 600-year-old Venetian tower, Angeliki and her team grow Aegean grape varietals – Assyrtiko, Aidani, and Monemvasia for whites; Mandilaria, Mavrotragano, and Fokiano for reds. Years of viticultural research have resulted in identifying and reviving unknown grape varietals – Bastardiko, Engaritiko, Austiano, Aspro Siriki, Charabraim, and Vourliotiko. More than ever, Grazia believes that these nearly extinct indigenous varieties, along with other ancestral grapes, might hold the key to Greece’s winemaking future.
When did your love affair with the grape begin?
Having roots from Naxos, an island so rich in history and culture, which is indeed connected with two myths of the god Dionysus, and with a long-standing tradition in viticulture and winemaking. My passion for wandering back in time led me to discover unknown grape varieties and to the desire to do everything possible to preserve them. My aim is now to revive Naxos’ long history in viticulture and winemaking and to highlight its potential.
How challenging is it to run a vineyard on an island – in your case, Terra Grazia on Naxos?
My desire to showcase the potential of my region in the field of winemaking led me to the decision to establish our own vineyard, which we can fully control, knowing that the unique characteristics of our estate’s terroir ensure the ideal conditions for it. Because good wine is made in the vineyard, what primarily concerns us is the proper development and protection of the vineyard. We strive to combine the experience of tradition with the knowledge of science, maintaining a continuous dialogue between us. The great challenge is to correctly assess the climatic changes, so that we can implement proper cultivation methods while continuously monitoring the vineyard to prevent any disease, given that we exclusively follow organic farming methods. In fact, taking it a step further, we apply the rules of biodynamics, as the traditional vine growers of the island did, following the lunar cycle and using wise techniques in cultivation that harness the capabilities provided by nature itself.
What has been the single biggest change to have shaped the Greek wine landscape in recent years?
In my opinion, what has been added to the wine map of Greece and has enriched the wine experience is the emergence in recent years of numerous small wineries, which engage in small, very high-quality productions and experiment with local varieties and more natural winemaking methods. The significant difference they have brought is the unique experience they offer, as well as the new knowledge gained through experimentation and exploration.
Which countries are developing the biggest thirst for Greek wines?
Greek wine is becoming more and more well-known year by year, both because it has rapidly evolved in quality and because the transportation of people and information has also been greatly facilitated in recent years. The appeal of Greek wine in European Union countries is logically greater, due to the free movement of goods, but certainly, the reputation of Greek wine has now spread across the globe, as serious work has been done by the wine community in this field, and also because the increase in tourism has contributed to recognizing our country for its hidden treasures, among which—beyond its natural beauty—are its food products that are produced in Mediterranean conditions and in particularly rich and complex soil.
Can you let us in on an unsung hero among emerging Greek wines?
The unknown hero is all those wines that strive to convey the absolute character of the indigenous variety from the place they originate and take us on journeys to new experiences and unknown paths. They are those wines that, with the least possible interventions, gift their audience the aromas and flavors of the land that offers them. They are those wines that give us the opportunity to revive and honor each distinct variety of nature, utilizing it in the best possible way. It is exploration, the unknown, wandering through space and time.
Which wines do you think deliver the biggest surprise to first-time visitors to Greece?
I think that those who visit our country for the first time pass through Athens and end up on our islands. They are therefore fortunate to experience, from their very first contact with our country, the wines produced from vineyards bathed by the sea’s salt, drenched in light, cooled by the summer breeze, and whose drought-stricken roots, struggling to find moisture, have penetrated rocks rich in minerals along the way. These wines pleasantly surprise them, and by combining them with their surroundings, they convince them that something special is happening here.
What is the Greek wine making industry’s greatest weapon in your opinion?
The strength of Greek wine lies in the passion of its people, their love for their land, and tradition. Let’s not forget that Greece is the home of Dionysus. It is the place where light and soil give life. It is no coincidence that globally, its name is associated with the vine and wine. From ancient times to the present day, it is honored in every corner of the country with celebrations of joy and devotion. This is our legacy and our future.
Tell us your 5-year predictions for the Greek wine industry …
I believe that the trajectory of Greek wine has already entered a path of steady growth and extroversion, and that with continuous dedication and consistency to high-quality goals, it will manage to showcase its unique qualities and win the heart and respect of the international wine consumer audience.
Could you please share your personal wine picks with Athens Insider: Which wine would you take to…
A dinner party?
Our rosé Terra Grazia Fokiano. This is a gastronomic rosé for aging from the Cycladic variety Fokiano, with a rich aromatic character, full body, and long aftertaste.
- A summer barbecue?
The Terra Grazia Mosaic Vintage Grapes. In a bottle All the white varieties of the Cycladic vineyard are hidden, including unknown white varieties of Naxos, such as Bastardico, Aspro Siriki, Vourliotiko, and Charabram.
- A romantic evening?
The Terra Grazia Assyrtiko. A wine that captures the complexity of the Naxian subsoil, rich in calcium and minerals.
- Your favourite Athens wine bar currently is …?
It’s not just one … one of my favorites is Oinoscent, Vintage, Heteroclito, the By the Glass … and for more rebellious pursuits, Wine is Fine.
- Can you give us a best-value-for-money Greek wine recommendation?
My opinion is that “best value for money” is what gives us absolute satisfaction. In the sense that we should always seek what is worth it, and that for this reason alone, it is worth paying for.
- And finally, a “good investment for collectors” recommendation?
Just like in art, in wine everything is relative… the satisfaction in art is to enjoy the work, the same goes for wine… even by yourself.
