Orange Wines from Sclavos
Biodynamic pioneers from Kefalonia have a intriguing range of orange wines where they never let technique lead taste.
Orange wine, that is wine made from white grapes that have been left in contact with the skin of the grapes for part of the process, can sometimes be guilty of not “should we” but “can we”. I have tried wines of such mouth puckering funkiness that consuming them felt like the first step of a medical procedure rather than a pleasure. Leading Kefalonian producers Sclavos have a range of orange wines that prioritise an expression of the grape and, dare I say, drinkability, over a good tale of process for the wine nuts. The range even calls itself orange and has an artful painterly splash of the colour on label which avoids any nasty surprises for non-fans.
Sclavos Muscat Orange
100% Muscat grape from Kefalonia. Often more associated with sweeter wines, this orange wine is intensely aromatic with apricot, honey, elderflower and marmalade notes. Lots of acidity and a long finish. Delicious with a lemony chicken stew on an Autumn afternoon.
Sclavos Vostilidi Orange
A rare grape that is native to the Heptanese subgroup of Ionian islands, this is another full-bodied, aromatic and energetic orange wine. Bursting with ripe citrus including the floral notes of bergamot and with a rich golden orange hue, this wine lots great in the glass and tastes wonderful as well. An excellent glass before a meal with smoked meats and fish.
Sclavos Zakinthino Orange
Another rare grape that despite its name is now associated with Kefalonia, home to Sclavos as well as a number of other excellent producers. This wine is the kind of orange that you wouldn’t dare to drive through at a traffic light. Loads of dried fruit, crystallized citrus peel, honey and even almonds, this is a complex and rewarding wine which is rich and fresh with a long finish. I would suggest that it would be perfect with grilled meats but I might get told off for saying so.
