Rhodes & Symi: In the calm of the off-season, the islands maintain their charm
Charming and calm, Elizabeth Murray explores how the famous island and its neighbor can be the perfect relaxing getaway in the off season.
It was a mild Thursday night when I touched down in Rhodes. It was quite the turnaround; in the span of an hour, I had gone from the bustle of Athens to the peace and calm of the Dodecanese Islands. I was there for a 4-day getaway and was looking forward to exploring the island’s rich history. I was informed that at this time of year my options for things to do would be limited, but that at least in Rhodes town there would be more things open than in other areas of the island.
After settling into my hotel room, I decided to go and find something to eat. This proved slightly more difficult than I had anticipated; all the restaurants I had found on Google were still closed for the season, so I wandered closer to the downtown looking for something open. Luckily, it only took 10 minutes before I found a packed street with people sitting outside a charming cocktail bar called The Last Butler. The bar is jazz themed and serves experimental cocktails and snacks. The drinks were good and the food delicious; I immediately decided that I would return as often as I could during my stay.
The next morning I put on my walking shoes and decided to explore the fortified city. Just as I expected, most of the businesses were closed, and there were very few tourists in the city. I took this in stride and enjoyed having the streets to myself. I felt that it was a better way to immerse myself in the history surrounding me and fully take in the town’s charm.
Many sites, like the synagogue and mosque, were not open yet, but the Castello and the Archeological Museum were, as well as a few other churches. The highlight of the Archeological Museum was its beautiful gardens filled with lush greenery, beautiful mosaics, and encased in medieval walls. The Castello was practically empty of visitors, and I had many rooms and hallways to myself.
The Castello was interesting, featuring decor and objects from the time when it was inhabited by the Knights Hospitaller and from the era of Italian rule. I walked around close to the entirety of the old city, trying to take in as much as I could and falling for its charm. The only drawback was that my options to stop for lunch were limited, and very few places in the old town were open and serving food.
The next day the weather began to improve, so I took the opportunity to wander around the modern city and the waterfront. The downtown is pretty active with all the big stores I would find in Athens. The waterfront was splendid; near the port there are some buildings from the
Italian era as well as markers to where the famous Colossus once stood. The beaches offer clear waters and splendid views of Türkiye and other parts of the island. I had the beaches for myself too and ended my day by watching a magnificent sunset.
Travel options to other parts of the island during this time of year are limited; you can either rent a car or take a taxi if you wish to visit another town. If you would like to explore other parts of the region there is the option to go to the nearby island of Symi. The ferry ride round trip comes out to €64 per person, with one boat leaving at 8:00h and one leaving Symi at 16:30h. The town of Symi was very colorful and charming, and there were a decent amount of restaurants and cafes open on the waterfront.
Symi is a very rugged island with beautiful hills and hidden beaches. Traveling to other parts of the island is difficult in the off-season, but there’s a nice, secluded stone beach close enough to the town. Getting down the stone path to the beach requires some agility but its crystal clear waters are well worth it.
Even though my options were limited, I still enjoyed my time in Rhodes and Symi. I was sad to leave at the end of my stay, despite only spending only a few days I felt at home, and left feeling completely relaxed and refreshed.
