Vermuteria Via Maris Shakes up Athens with a New Culinary Concept

• PIN

The space, a harmonious blend of mid-century chic and industrial edge, unfolds in layers: an inviting front terrace, a tucked-away back patio, and three distinct indoor areas, including a vermouth bar that’s just the right level of convivial. The décor keeps things sleek without trying too hard—soft beige walls, terrazzo flooring, and exposed nickel piping lend an effortless cool, while crisp white tablecloths and minimalist wooden chairs remind you that this is a serious operation, not just an Instagram trap.

It’s the kind of place that encourages you to lose track of time, grazing on small plates, working through a bottle or two of wine, or indulging in a few glasses of vermouth without panicking over the bill. And thank God, because the food deserves that kind of leisurely attention. The menu, a seafood-leaning love letter to the ancient Via Maris sea trade route, is a tight, well-considered mix of Middle Eastern, North African, and Mediterranean influences—big, confident flavours that aren’t afraid to play with spice and texture.

First up, oysters. At just 10 euros for two, they arrive adorned with coriander sprout foam and a drizzle of excellent olive oil. A fish tartare follows, its silky texture punctuated by crunchy shallots and elevated by an unctuous leche de tigre dressing.

Celeriac skewers, unexpectedly rich with umami, come with potato pavé, béarnaise sauce, and a flourish of dried bonito—a dish that sounds like it shouldn’t work but absolutely does. And then there’s the audacious shrimp-stuffed tortellini with anthotyro and Naxos cheese, swimming in a bisque. Again, works!  The humble focaccia gets a glow-up too, dusted with cumin and Duqqa, and paired with a briny citron confit that demands to be eaten in scandalous quantities.

The larger plates keep up the momentum too. Charred carrots with yoghurt and Duqqa might sound like the obligatory nod to vegetarians, but it’s a standout dish: smoky, sweet, and loaded with an umami kick that lingers long after the last bite. The Moroccan fish fillet with chickpeas, harissa, and cilantro oil, meanwhile, delivers pure comfort—meltingly tender, deeply spiced, and bolstered by the gentle bite of chickpeas that haven’t been cooked into submission.

And then, of course, there’s the vermouth. A carefully curated selection, served with sparkling water and garnishes, it’s a masterclass in how a good drink can transform a meal. For the less adventurous, the wine list is compact but astute.

Throughout, the service is warm, clued-up, and mercifully free of the kind of forced informality that too many places mistake for charm. The staff know their menu inside out, guiding diners through unfamiliar flavours with ease. Prices, refreshingly, are spot-on, making this the kind of place you’d happily return to again and again, checking out the ever-changing specials, pretending you’re just passing by, and inevitably staying for hours.

In short, Via Maris isn’t yet another new addition to Athens’ dining scene – it’s a restaurant quietly establishing itself as a destination for a quiet drink and unfussy, competent dishes. And one we’d encourage you to visit.